"...The loveliness of Paris seems somehow sadly gray
The glory that was Rome is of another day
I've been terribly alone and forgotten in Manhattan
I'm going home to my city by the Bay..."
A more successful trip to San Francisco than my previous two brief ventures leaving me thinking San Francisco was "just a Seattle with palm trees". Challenging terain in some areas (hence the cable cars) so not stroller friendly, high heels friendly or running friendly (neither of which impacted me). The outer edges by the water are much more forgiving. Everything seemed to be the same prices; however, in US$ (versus our Trudeau Trinkettes) with exception of the nearby Nordstrom Rack. Drivers are aggressive and do not cross the street if you see anything less than "5" on the pedestrian countdown. Shuttle services are great and only $15 per person to or from airport.
One of the popular attractions, Market St., shall satisfy most with its collection of brand name stores and Starbucks at every corner (hence my mistaking for a warmer Seattle); however, the main attractions are the assortment of colourful old streetcars from years gone by (I even saw one from Toronto, a gleaming "Red Rocket" that looked better than any piece of transit equipment the TTC has ever owned, and a smoother ride too!). If staying in or near union Square, these street cars will take you straight to the piers by the waterfront for an enjoyable US $2.25 (or less than a C$ TTC fare).
The piers offer many options for dining, patios and drinking a sunny afternoon away. One restaurant to go to in the early evening for a sunset is Tarantino's, although a drink and an appetizer is about all you need as this place is stuck in the 80s, but the location must have been strategically chosen by ancient Mayans. The staff are friendly, the local Anchor Steam is a decent beer and the appetizers are of a healthy size. Next you want to go to Boudin, famous for its sourdough bread and the bread bowl chowder (carb loading Heaven). Although more famous, the seals are available to watch as they crowd some nearby docks and make their low octave growls while most are just sleeping. Do not feed them.
Another well known instituition of San Francisco is Lori's, a cheap and cheerful diner establishment, it was a welcomed destination after a 6am arrival into San Francisco from Kauai. Three locations are in town and there is no award for conquering all three. As I found out.
San Francisco is a happy hour friendly city and with Napa and Sonoma close by, good thing it is! Many are offered along Hyde Street which is also a cable car street with many stops. However, if walking Hyde Street just remember it is a cable car steet for a reaon so just make sure your have planned the right route....that is, downhill!
A bike ride around town is one way to appreciate the city (and its hills!). There are a few bike rental companies in town, all offering a similar deal: US$8 to 9 per hour or US$ 32 to 36 per day. Included usually are free ferry tickets to return once you've crossed the Golden Gate Bridge into Sausalito and Tiburon. I'm not sure if this typical but can be a windy ride as some of the route is along the ocean front (that included sand and a free exfoliation). Before that is a good portion of the route stretching through Golden Gate Park, a cruising cyclist's paradise. Nevertheless, plan at least half a day (likely the better part of a full day) to explore and take in all the sights with restaurant options in Sausalito and Tiburon as a destination before returning on the ferry. Most of the bike rental companies have a few locations so you can drop at a different area if your plans change....for US $10 extra. Another option is the local bike share. Or for a more attention grabbing transportation method try "GOCar", a two seater, yellow monster driven almost like a motor bike. Helmets provided and looks guaranteed. En (recommended) route to the Golden Gate Bridge while on the bike, you will pass the "Painted Ladies" near Alamo Square, a row of familiar Victorian homes from several movies and television programs. View from the park across the street along with other tourists was more "tree-ish" than my memory.
While in San Francisco a trip to Alcatraz (US $33) and the Cable Car Museum (free!) is necessary. Even if you think silly cable cars are for boys and that the history of crime should not intrigue anyone, you will regret not investigating both. Due to the luck of a sunny yet cool, breezy day, the 15 minute ferry ride was very pleasant and provided fantastic camera angles for photos of "The Rock" (cue up Sean Connery accent). The first room visited is the main shower room where inmates received their new clothing While there, everyone is handed an audio set with which to tour around the various cells, blocks, rooms, offices, quarters, etc. This audio tour highlights the cells where the men were staying that escaped and were never found, another yet botched incident where a guard was overpowered, locked in a cell then later shot and another event during a riot where the Marines were called in and the markings of grenades dropped through the roof are still evident in the floor. You can shuffle along from place to place as per the audio instructions of the audio guide (this includes voices from previous guards, inmates and even children of families that lived and worked on the island). An interesting talk was given that afternoon on Al Capone right in the dining hall where inmates were given only 20 minutes to eat their meals.
After a visit to the Cable Car Museum a whole new appreciation for the transit system and the technology of the time will be instilled within you. Despite the name, a eureka moment was had after discovering the cables run under the street, around corners, both up and down hill covering the entire routes of the two remaining lines. It is well worth the visit (free).
For views of the city, San Francisco is host to several hotels with top level restaurants, lounges and bars. After a few attempts at the Westin, Hilton , Fairmont unfortunately the anticipated views were met with views of private parties and weddings (mid April must be a popular time in San Francisco). If unsuccessful the lobby of the Hilton is a good place to have a drink. However, one excellent find was "The Top of the Mark" in the Intercontinental Mark Hopkins hotel. An old style lounge/bar with a fantastic band that played the right mix of 70s with the latest top 40 overlooking various angles of the city. I've never seen a dance floor so populated within the first few notes from the band. For something out of the ordinary visit the Tonga tiki bar surprisingly located in the Fairmont. As luck would have it there was a private event...after having tried the two previous evenings! A for effort.
After all of that, sadly no run in with Tony Bennett ("I left my heart....in San Franciscoooooooooo"), but a trip back would definitely be worth it
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