Amazing what one month of spending can do (I certainly felt it on my Visa after my Dublin trip). Here's to "sunny ways"...
Monday, May 30, 2016
Saturday, May 28, 2016
The Full Irish: Dublin's Music, comedic tour guides, Phil Lynott and the Guinness
Dublin, where the Guinness flows and all the tours and attractions are €16. It was a brisk cool entry into Dublin with a calming flyover some golf courses on Aer Lingus connecting through London. To connect to downtown, a taxi will cost approximately €25 or the bus will cost €6 leaving every 20 minutes or so (throw in a 3 day hop-on hop-off tour bus for €33 and this offer starts to sound reasonable).
If arriving early or on a red eye flight and waiting to check into your hotel, might as well go straight for what is intimidatingly known as the "Full Irish". A solid breakfast of fried eggs, various sausages and bacon that may also contain fries/chips. It will run you about €10 and may last you for the whole day! Bobo's on Dame Street provides good fare with pictures of Irish celebrities on each of its tables. Conveniently my full Irish was with Phil Lynott of Thin Lizzy fame. If putting it off to later in your stay, then O'Brien's is a good and lighter sandwich option if continuing to stretch the legs and you don't want to restaurant all day. Or even a quick trip into the Tesco grocery stores that typically have an assortment of pastries/breads if you are already missing Tim Horton.
For other eating options, the Elephant and Castle with reasonably priced gourmet burgers and Boxty for Irish boxty breakfasts are solid choices. Also centrally located (and next to the Temple Bar Hotel) is the Hard Rock Cafe if that tickles your fancy or just for a trip to review the Orange guitar amps (the brand name and colour) on display in the window.
If still waiting for a hotel room, among some other "tick off the list" items: a ride on the double decker bus (inexpensive way to see the city), wander the shops of Grafton Street, take a quick turn and visit the Phil Lynott statue on Harry Street next to Bruxelles Pub (a decent place off the path that has a good Shepherds pie), or visit the Irish Rock n Roll hall of Fame (€16...again). There are bike share programs to further explore the city; however with all the new Tram construction currently it is difficult to attempt unless you are an adventurous local student with more than a familiar knowledge of the windy streets.
Areas in downtown around the river Liffy (Dublin Castle, Brazen Head, Cathedral) are walkable with a few bridges to cross from the north and south sides. However, the city is not very "running friendly ", unless you're up early and spared yourself the Guinness the night before. But who does that.
Be mindful that when out and about in Dublin the weather can change instantly and several times a day. Having entered an establishment for a peek don't be surprised to find the conditions outside when you exit to have only reversed. Or, if you looked out the hotel and expected to leave your jacket for the day, you'll probably need it before the elevator hits the ground floor.
Among some of the many Dublin attractions are Trinity College, Dublin Castle and the Jameson Whisky tour. The tour guides are often attractions themselves injecting very witty humour and delivery into the historical facts and descriptions of mechanical processes they are explaining. At Trinity College, Ireland's proud hall of education, founded in1592 by Royal Charter at a time when during the 1590s England had two long-established and expanding universities, and Scotland four. Its 50 acre site is deceiving when looking at it from the main entrance (white edifice). Degrees here are recognized at Oxford and Cambridge when transferring as was explained by our self claimed "professional student" yet entertaining tour guide.
The main attractions at Trinity are the stunning Old Library where volumes and books are not categorized by subject, author or a decimal based system....but by size, and the famous Book of Kells (how was this significant document missed during my Catholic school upbringing?). Created in a monestary circa 800 A.D., the history of this collection of four ornate Gospel works and western calligraphy has a mysterious, tragic and intriguing past having first thought to have been written in Iona (Scotland) then coinciding with Viking raids was moved to Ireland in the Abbey of Kells (County Meath). It now resides in Trinity College as a national treasure where particular pages of text and art are on display.
At Dublin castle, a very historically important building in the history of Ireland in particular leading up to and after the Easter rising of 1916, another of the humorous tour guides took us through the structural, historical and cultural foundations of this grand structure. Mostly known for one of its unfortunate guests, the tour illustrated the story of James Connolly, an important figure leading to Ireland's independence. Under military escort, Connolly was carried to the castle's makeshift hospital facilities as set up by the Red Cross, where hours later he signed Pearse`s surrender order on behalf of the Irish Citizen Army. He was court-martialled there, while propped up in his bed, and later hauled off to Kilmainham Gaol then executed by firing squad, not strong enough to stand but tied to a chair.
On a lighter note, the Old Jameson Distillery tour (€16) is at the old site where it has since been moved to Cork in order to be closer to the grain farmers (as the Irish are extremely keen about their ingredients). The tour explains the back breaking work of workers past during the unmechanized days of hauling bags of grain up several stories to dry out, now replaced with mechanical processes streamlining the processes and inventory control as explained by our enthusiastic French Canadian tour guide. To our surprise the tour finished with a twist on the tasting - Jameson versus Johnnie Walker and Jack Daniels. Afterwards, as a reward, you can have the choice of a whiskey or the memorable Jameson ginger and lime. Take the latter! Later, you can bottle your own whiskey complete with your own name on it, for....€100. The Guinness tour was a highlight of the trip not just for its known sampling at the end but for the certificate of "official pouring class" and best views of the city of Dublin. Like all tours around the world they terminate in the gift shop, so be sure to have an expandable suitcase for all the "unique" chocolates, t-shirts, golf attire, coffee mugs, etc.
If taking in unique sports is of interest a visit to Croke Park in the city's northeast end to watch a Hurling match will more than satisfy. With elements of soccer, lacrosse, Aussie Rules Football and hockey, this 3,000 year old sport will be memorable even if only just an early season league game. No drinks allowed in the stands but at the break, fans showing their true colours of support for their teams gather on the ground floor for the €5 Guinness and such offerings as curry fries.
No stay to Dublin is complete without a trip to the Temple Bar area where on the weekends (less so during the week) the music goes all day and night and there is no shortage of 20- and 30-somethings paraded around in cow costumes or baby outfits (that should be at least one size bigger). Curiously, there was no sign of police presence for such a concentrated, alcohol fuelled area. If you're a guitarist/singer looking for an acoustic gig, then Temple Bar is a Mecca with lots of work available (even this author managed a couple of quick renditions from a generous busker at the Bedford Row corner...around 3:30am). And all seem to be required to play a common set of 10 songs no matter where you go (when did Oasis' "Wonderwall" become the Irish anthem?). Quays is a popular pub centrally located on the main strip of Fleet Street which will be noticed as hundreds can be heard singing the latest cover songs. Upstairs at Quays is a decent restaurant serving Irish fare complete with witty servers. Later it becomes more boisterous as the guitar playing singers perform similar songs (no doubt "Whiskey in the Jar" will be heard at least once a day). The Auld Dubliner appeared to be the "starter" place as it seemed busier earlier in the day. The Temple Bar was also a popular favourite among many complete with a garden area (which you would only know or think of looking up during the day).
No matter where you go, all places will have live music, friendly people and no lines or queues to negotiate. Once inside, you'll be getting your craíc on, talking to your neighbours and making new friends. Come to Dublin for the charm, the music, the tour guides, the food and my goodness...the Guinness !
PS...don't take horse carriage rides!
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