Saturday, June 25, 2016

Montréal: If you are afraid to drive in this city, then St. Jean Baptiste day is for you

Picking up from my brief Toronto stay, I left my downtown Air BnB condo this morning, not bright but definitely early (5:30 am).  I walked across to the Billy Bishop Airport (YTZ) by way of a newly constructed underground tunnel up to the departure level, where curiously security is split among US/Sudbury/Timmins...and the rest of Porter's destinations.  After security, all passengers are welcomed to a selection of free coffee, tea, biscuits/cookies that already elevates Porter's status compared to all other regional and national airlines along with an ample and comparable lounge.  The flight was a pleasant one with only nine passengers on board the bright and clean interior of the Q400 with a friendly flight attendant from Motherwell, Scotland. 

Once arrived in Montréal, after about an hour flight, I took the fixed price ($40) cab downtown to meet my good friend Mark in order to drop my luggage at his office. The traffic was non existent as I discovered that most Montrealais have left town as the St. Jean Baptiste holiday was on a Friday, yielding a long weekend.

Once luggage free, I enjoyed an early morning coffee with Mark (who's sleeping pattern that Thursday night, like many debt and bond professionals around the world, had been impacted by the unexpected result of the Brexit referendum).  I then wandered from the Rene Lévesque Blvd office tower to Old Montreal, a 20 minutes jaunt.  While there I discovered I was a week early for, of all things, a poutine festival! After processing my future loss, I walked up and down the main Boulevard and explored the odd quay.  With some amazement and curiousity, what can only be described as a "zip line jungle gym" caught my eye.  A series of wooden constructed obstacles and netting a couple to a few stories in the air all the while being hooked (sometimes suspended) to an unattachable cable, that was challenging for both kids and adults.  Also in Old Montreal, several one day tour options on cruise ships and charters were available including a pontoon style touring boat, which would have been very appropriate for the hot and sunny weather that blessed this long week end in Québec.

I headed back for lunch with Mark (fading away) at Trios Brasseurs on rue St. Catherine, a real institution in Montreal, for a right sized portion of grilled chicken and pico de gallo sandwich along with a refreshing blonde ale. Again to my surprise (most likely due to a lot of people leaving the city for the weekend) without any delay we were seated on the patio at a selected shady table.

Due to already being on rue St Catherine it was easy to watch the St. Jean Baptiste parade during lunch as well as after. There were some obvious themes due to the blue and white colours of the Québec flag (gymnasts, dancers, choirs) but some not so obvious groups, actually bordering "random".  Including a massive green and white moose sculpture and an impeccably dressed Falun Dafa marching band. 

After receiving the texted signal from Mark that the bond markets were basically closed until Monday (to pick up the financial impacts up from there), we drove to his house, sitting in the backyard for the afternoon when serenity broke and the toys, activities and environment of a cute, talkative and rambunctious four-year old and a quieter one-year old trying to figure out his legs work, took over into the early evening.

Later, was a stop at the Bremner, an unidentified Chuck Hughes restaurant (if you're a fan of Canadian food TV shows) located in a basement on rue St. Paul. An eclectic place where we enjoyed a table in the back which was slightly brighter being open to the street.  Just as eclectic was the menu with various fish based choices and appetizers. The wine list was quite extensive including some curious and unknown wines on the shorter wine by-the glass menu. Bien mangé.

The next day I awakened to the aroma of the healthiest, flourless, oatmeal chocolate chip cookes.  Although as I understand a somewhat later start due to the little ones sleeping past the normal 6:30 am, Meranda managed to fire up this amazing concoction.  To top that off, breakfast was served with a load of toasted quintessential Montreal bagels and believe it or not, cream cheese with bacon and maple syrup. Incroyable.

The early afternoon involved a walk around Nun's Island (Ile de Soeurs), a suburban and nature oasis not that far from the city.  The area is comprised of modern homes, families, a few condo structures and some commercial space.  Later the walking continued around Atwater market on a mission for lunch.  Atwater market offers the usual selection of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, crafts, etc (in both languages) but also those unique lunches you can tell all your friends about back home (try Satay for a selection of Bun Vapeur with porc braissé, a light but spicy papaya salad and of course the satay sandwiches...yes, sandwiches).  Later for me, it was straight for the maple gifts and the canned Québec maple syrup which goes home with me each time.

Across the street we visited an ice cream store, Havre aux Glaces, with a compact but solid selection of ice creams and sorbets that included, of course, the MAPLE crėme brulé for me. Outside was an amusing little jazz band that we watched before strolling along La Chine under the hot afternoon sun before heading back to the comforting shady backyard and a trip to the VIA station.

A fantastic weekend in a city that I don't visit enough along with my good friend, his wife and growing family as company (thanks for the hospitality and accommodation!).  "Mark" St. Jean Baptiste in your calendars for next year, it will be a Saturday and another long weekend in Québec.

A la prochaine.

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